Caring for your Kitten
Recommendation - The GCCF strongly recommends that no kitten should be permitted
to go to a new home before 13 weeks of age. At least seven days prior to
this the kitten should have completed a full course of vaccinations, including
a health check, given by a Veterinary Surgeon or by a listed Veterinary
Nurse under the direction of a Veterinary Surgeon. The breeder should ensure
that kittens are house-trained, inoculated and in good general health.
Take a carrying box with you. No matter how quiet the kitten may seem
in its home surroundings the sound of a car and unfamiliar people may
frighten it. It is against the law to carry an unrestrained animal when
travelling and a kitten loose in a car is a hazard to itself, the car
driver, and other traffic on the road. What would you do if the car broke
down or if you were involved in an accident and the kitten escaped?
Ask the breeder for detailed instructions on the kitten's daily routine
- its feeding, grooming, toileting and playing habits. Many breeders supply
a diet sheet, you should ask for this. Make sure you have some of your
kitten's favourite foods ready, and introduce any dietary changes gradually.
Settling in
When you get home let the kitten find its own way out of the basket/box
and allow it to explore one room at a time. Make sure it knows where its
litter tray and water bowl are. (The toilet and feeding areas should not
be too close together).
Make sure the room is escape proof - chimneys blocked, doors and windows
shut. Kittens can get through surprisingly small places.
Kittens are very often frightened by children and other pets if they
are not used to them. Children should understand that they must keep very
still and quiet (very small children should not be introduced until the
kitten has had a chance to settle). Other animals should be introduced
later - gradually and one at a time.
Do not overwhelm your kitten with too much attention, let it come to
you naturally, remember you are a stranger to it. Talk to it and encourage
it to play with a toy (cotton reels and ping pong balls are favourites).
Do not restrain your kitten and force it to sit on your knee. Your lap
should be a haven to it, not a prison. Patience with your kitten in the
first few hours will be well rewarded.
If you have a scratching post (which is recommended unless you prefer
shredded furniture) show your kitten how to use this.
Warmth & Hygiene
Your kitten needs warmth at first - it will miss its mother and litter mates.
If there is not some form of heating in the room at all times it should
be provided with a heated bed or metal pad (especially manufactured for
the purpose and obtainable from pet shops). Even when adult, a short haired
cat should never be left alone in an unheated room at night or in cold weather
without some basket or bed with warm bedding in it.
No cat should ever be put out at night to fend for itself
A sanitary tray - litter tray or washing up bowl - must be available
at all times and kept in the same place. Solid matter and wet lumps should
be removed from the tray frequently and the litter renewed when necessary.
The tray should be washed and disinfected frequently. Rinse thoroughly
after disinfecting and allow to dry before use. Cats are very fussy and
will not use a dirty tray (neither will your visitors appreciate it!).
You can buy covered litter trays which provide privacy for your cat and
hide the litter from your visitors.
Hazards
All of the following have been the cause of death and serious
injury to kittens and young cats: front and top loading washing machines,
tumble driers, electric flexes that can be chewed, hot stoves, water tanks,
garden pools, toilets with open lids (you don't want to fish your kitten
out from the U-bend), hot baths, irons and the tops of storage heaters.
Be aware that your kitten will investigate open chimneys, open doors
and windows. It can escape and disappear through the smallest crack and
may get shut in a drawer or cupboard. The airing cupboard is a favourite
hiding place and the results can be disastrous after a few hours with
no litter tray.
Kittens often creep away under low furniture, kitchen units or electrical
appliances.
Use disinfectants which do not contain Phenol or Cresol.
These are poisonous to cats. Most brands of household disinfectants
contain them. (A quick test is to see if it goes white when added to water).
Parvocide, GPC-8, Virkon, Peratol and Trigene are safe in correct dilution.
Always dilute a cleansing agent according to the instructions and make
sure disinfected items are rinsed and aired afterwards. To cleanse a soiled
area use a biological washing powder and then rub with surgical spirit
as this prevents the cat being attracted back to the same spot.
Cats and kittens can poison themselves by washing their feet or coats
after walking through a poisonous substance. Insecticides, weed killers,
slug pellets, timber preservatives, woodworm treatments, petrol and anti-freeze
are all harmful to cats - often with fatal consequences. Never give a
cat any drugs that have not been prescribed for it; many human drugs are
poisonous to cats. Seek veterinary advice immediately if you suspect any
form of poisoning.
Take care that toys, or parts of them, cannot be swallowed. Plastic
bags and rubber bands such as the elastic that goes around joints of meat
are a hazard. Plastic does not show up on an X-ray and can be very dangerous
if swallowed. Do not allow a kitten to play unsupervised with wool, string
or thread, and beware of sewing needles and pins - kittens have been known
to swallow thread with these still attached.
Many house plants are poisonous. Do not leave them where they can be
chewed - just in case.
Final note
Your breeder has reared the kitten with care up to the age of three months
and he/she would appreciate a word on its progress - especially a spare
photograph. They might not have time to write back, but would be very
grateful.
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